John:
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I've found the same thing
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I've been using the web since 1994, and there are still pages where I sit there going "WTF do I do now?" If *I'm* confounded by a page, then think what the heck it must be like for the clueless, the not-so-smart, and the new!
I know a web designer who's a true genius; his Flash sites are things of beauty. They're also impossible to use. He doesn't wanna gunk up his beautiful designs with such nonsense as "navigation." So every single one of his sites, you hafta stare at it, scroll your mouse over everything watching the status bar to see whether anything's going on, and cross your fingers that you can locate what you're looking for.
If you're really hoping to get someone to read, sign up, buy, or log in, you hafta make it easy for *everyone*, even when it annoys you to do it.
None of this applies if you're building sites just to amuse yourself.