Just this year I was able to get Dreamweaver off Ebay. Before I was using HTML Kit. I did like it, but I must agree that it is very cluttered. To a beginner the interface can be downright intimidating.
I'm using Dreamweaver now, version 8. I don't use the design view much. Code view is just like any other text editor, but with tons of bells and whistles. The shortcuts Dreamweaver offers is well worth the look.
WeBuilder www.blumentals.net/webuilder/ from Bluementals. They do HTML editor, CSS etc. but Webuilder has them all rolled into one. PHP ASP ColdFusion CSS HTML, etc. Has autocomplete if you need/want it.
I'm not using any of the professional html editors listed above.
I'm still using the old fashion way: writing down on paper and then scan it. the paper is the true html editor for me.